Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Climbing Mont Blanc: Preparation - Gear




The other part of the preparation was getting all the right gear. I got most of my gear before I left and bought and rented the rest in France. Proper hiking attire is expensive. Stick “GoreTeX” or “technical” on a t-shirt and double the price. Basically you need to wear at least three layers of clothes. The clothes should be made from synthetic materials (not cotton), be light, and dry quickly. Be aware there are now several other types of fabric on the market that do the same job (or better) as GoreTeX.

  • A thin base layer: keeps you warm and moves moisture (sweat) away from your skin which is called “wicking”. Well fitting long sleeve top and trousers required for this.

  • A middle layer: A slightly thicker fleece top, again made from a material that does not hold moisture but drys quickly. This layer should be light, water resistant and wind-proof and is known as a micro-fleece or 100 weight fleece. It should be GoreTeX or similar. Zips that can be opened when you are too hot are handy.

  • Mid-layer trousers: Basic synthetic trousers. Some people like cut-offs that can be turned into shorts but they are fussy, heavier and not worth it.

  • Outer layer: A light wind and water proof jacket with a hood (to go over a helmet) that you can throw on to protect you from snow and icy winds.

  • Outer-layer trousers: Light, water and wind proof. They should be ones that you can put on quickly over boots (including crampons) so should have zip up sides.

  • Warm fluffy goose-down or synthetic goose-down jacket: This layer gives you extra warmth when you stop at the summit or for a break. Its not necessarily properly water-proof but you can put your outer-shell jacket over it if needs be.

  • Thin inner gloves; Waterproof warm outer gloves, hat, balaclava, inner, socks and outer socks, oh and “technical underwear” (I haven’t seen this on most lists but trust me you need it.)

  • You will also need sunglasses (suitable for glaciers i.e. grade 4) and ski googles which are better in high winds. Try and get clear goggles so you can use them at night and then put your glasses on under the goggles when the sun comes up.





    • Here is a full list of my clothes and equipment, whether I bought or rented, whether I actually used them during the climb, and any other notes:


































































































































































































































































































      Mont Blanc Gear Checklist
      ItemBought or

      Rented
      Actually Used
      or Not
      Notes
      Inner SocksBU
      Outer SocksBUBring spare pair in case first pair get wet
      Technical underwearBURecommend buy one pair
      Base layer (top and bottoms)BUBuy a basic cheap base layer
      T-shirtBUI put on over base layer but not sure if really needed.
      High-tech water-resistant lighweight fleeceBUAn important piece of your kit. Consider its purchase with more care.
      TrousersBUBuy standard trekking trousers.
      Outer shell jacketBUPrepare to spend on this but pick something fashionable and you can use generally. GoreTeX or similar.
      Outer shell trousersBUDon't go overboard spending on this
      Goose down jacketBUThese cost money and I never needed to wear mine even at night in cold weather and biting wind but if you get into trouble you would get very cold very quickly without it
      Sun hat or capBNI used in training though
      BalaclavaBUA Must.

      Try and get a comfortable one as they can itch the face off you
      HatBU
      Sun glassesB U For Glacier (grade 4)
      Ski gogglesB U Make sure can fit over sun-glasses, consider if you will need to use at night in which case get clear or lightly tinted. You could use standard DIY goggles for this or better still buy ski goggles online at much lower prices
      Inner glovesBU
      Outer glovesBUBoy was I glad for these babies. Make sure are suitable for high mountains, waterproof and warm.
      GaitersBUGet ones with a buckle or similar quickly fastenable mechanism. Make sure they fit over all layers and over your ascent boots.
      BackpackBU45+10 litres. An important piece of kit. A bag with a couple of easily accessible separate compartments is very useful. You will need loops or side straps for poles and a loop and strap for an ice axe. Ideally you should keep your crampons, helmet and harness on the outside of your bag. Especially your crampons because they can rip stuff and will be wet after taken off
      Trekking polesBUThey will break so are not worth spending too much on but cheap ones will break quicker so go figure. One newer pole type doesn’t use the really annoying twist mechanism, which breaks all the time, but has a simpler clip catch instead. Or a twist pole I saw had only two separate sections, so although it could not telescope up as small, it had less chance of malfunctioning and was simpler to expand and retract.
      Small lightBNKeep in your pocket. Buy a light inexpensive one.
      Small knifeBN
      CompassBN
      Mobile (cell) phoneBUEssential. Get a waterproof pouch and make sure battery is charged. You will get reception right up to Goûter hut. Consider GPS-enabled such as Nokia N95
      Bandages, molesking and tapeBN
      Antiseptic creamBN
      CompeedBNSecond skin for blisters. I got no blisters just sore feet.
      ImmodiumBNNot really necessary. When you try and go in the hell that is the Goûter hut and feel a howling alpine wind shooting up through a toilet seat that gapes down a cliff you won't be able to go for a week anyway.
      Analgesic e.g. paracetemolBNDo you really need this? No simple headache tablet will make altitude sickness go away.
      Anti-inflammatories e.g. Ibuprofen (neurofen)BN
      EarplugsBUEssential but you still may not get any sleep in the Goûter
      Factor 40+ sun creamBUGet smallest possible size tube.
      20+ SPF lip balmBUKeep in your pockdet with the sun screen at all times
      Toothpaste/toothbrushBUGet travel-size tube.
      TowelBUNot cotton but synthetic technical/travel towel
      CameraBULight and in a pouch slung over your chest
      Ice axe (piolet)RU
      Harness with carabinerRU
      Winter mountaineering bootsRUDon't buy these, rent. So called four-season boots will not do. Its not just the rigid sole and lip for catching crampons. You need ones that give protection from severe cold. You need to have these fitted for crampons in the shop where you rent them.
      CramponsRU
      HeadlampRU
      HelmetR UYou could probably use a bicycle helmet for this as they are basic enough pieces of kit.
      2 litre water bottle or platypusBUPlatypusses can and do leak and burst. Try and leave in a separate compartment or pouch of your bag if you can. Also they will freeze at low temperatures.
      1 litre thermos flaskBUFor sweetened tea on the summit day as your platypus will freeze.
      SnacksBUI didn't actually eat too much of these but you probably need to eat at least one sugary cereal bar per stop. You should carry emergency amounts in case things don't go to plan. The basic ones from Carrefour are fine (anything that says “sport” or “power” on the front will be dearer.) Pre-unwrap and keep in a zip lock bag.
      Transparent Zip-lock plastic bagsBUGreat for medical, toilet and food stuffs.
      Plastic refuse sacksBUTo keep clothes dry, group things, or isolate wet items in your pack.

      The crampons, harness, helmet, axe, light were rented from the Twinner store which was right across the road from the guides office in Saint Gervais. It is a family run enterprise where all staff had great English, were very helpful and above all very knowledgeable. You can pre-book boots by email. We all got Sportiva Nepal Extreme which is a great boot and I got used to them very quickly. Once you are sure of your size you could buy these online. I am normal UK shoe size 10 (FR 44) and my half size up boot fitted me great ( UK 10.5)


      Next >> Training Days



    6 comments:

    1. Only 2 negative comments I would make about you gear list.

      Technical Underwear - what are you a girl. some sales person in one of the outdoor shops was trying to fleece you.

      As for the helmet, a bicycle helmet would not do. Have you ever seen or heard rock fall in the mountains, not a nice experience if you have to pass near it or underneath. There a number of mountaineering helmets that now look like bicycle helmets
      but these are tested to withstand certain forces, a bike helmet will not help.

      I'd use a sun hat with a neck covering for the walk in before I get to the stage of putting on my helmet.

      Other than that good list

      Mark

      ReplyDelete
    2. hey @markvader thanks for the feedback.

      I'm a big fan of technical underwear - though by technical I just mean non-cotton. Even hiking in wicklow on a warm day the first thing to get soaking are your scruds. Then you are stuck wet in them like a wet nappy all day. A lot of people wear fancy gortex north face trousers and underneath a cotton nappy. It would be particulary ludicrous to wear cotton underwear under a base layer. Better to go commando instead of that.

      Thanks for the info on the mountaineering helmets. The ones we were loaned were pretty rubbish. I figured if I rock hits you it couldn't be much worse than falling off a bike head-first but I reason this with no expertise whatsoever ;)

      I used a brimmed hat but would like to try a neck covered cap. Might be nicer if you could roll up the neck flap as needed.

      PS Where do you go hiking/mountaineering?

      On "technical" underwear point: a lot of running gear has the same wicking technology as hiking gear but is less specialist and there are more generic brandless products out there. I have a running top and bottons that I could have used as base layer and also tight running shorts could double as underwear.

      - Eamon

      ReplyDelete
    3. Re 'technical underwear' I've been playing in the outdoors for approx 20+ years (running, climbing, mountain climbing, caving etc) and have tried all sorts. The only technical underwear I ever wear now is a pair of swimming trunks...

      Note re use of bicycle helmet, I can understand the thinking but the practice makes me a bit nervous - I'd go for a light weight climbing specific helmet, or one of those that is now sold as a 'generic fits all' purposes - which have at least been tested for mountain use...

      Cheers

      ReplyDelete
    4. @Alain thanks for the comments. Swimming trunks: very clever. I think a lot of the stuff just goes by different names. Technical underwear will be a lot more expensive than swimming trunks though they are probably roughly the same thing!

      "Playing in the outdoors" - great description. I have just taken up rock climbing this year and am loving it but so far, due to the Irish weather, I have only been playing indoors ;)

      ReplyDelete
    5. Throw away your soap, detergent, and personal hygiene, the Japanese have invented odor-free underwear:

      http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20090323/od_uk_nm/oukoe_uk_space_underwear

      Koichi Wakata, a Japanese astronaut living in the International Space Station, is testing the underwear created by textile experts at Japan Women's University in Tokyo. The shorts are designed to kill bacteria, absorb water, insulate the body and dry quickly. They also are flame-resistant, and anti-static. "The other astronauts become very sweaty, but he doesn't have any sweat. He didn't need to hang his clothes to dry. He can wear his trunks (underwear) more than a week," said Koji Yanagawa, an official with the Japanese Aerospace Exploration Agency.

      ReplyDelete
    6. When you brave climbing Mont Blanc, you do need these things to be prepared. Being ill-prepared makes you susceptible for unfortunate circumstances. Pack nicely, travel, hike, and climb better.

      kershaw leek

      ReplyDelete